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The look is textbook French at this hotel bistro, just a block from Time Square's neon nightmares. Red-and-white checked napkins and a mirror-backed bar set the scene for basic Gallic fare, but much of the food falls short of the ambience. Starters included tough shrimp and scallop skewers overpowered by rosemary and a bland pâté de campagne{/I}--underseasoned ground pork with a side of crunchy cornichons. The kitchen does handle some basics well, including charred hanger steak with a side of crisp, delicate frites, and fudgy profiteroles. But unless you're in a real pretheater pinch, there are (a few) better options in the area.

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