Downtowners who want scene-free sushi should head for Sakura. Behind the dark-glass facade is a skinny dining room with bright-red walls and black tile floors. Like many Japanese restaurants, they offer classics like beef negimaki (broiled meat wrapped around scallions) and butter-smooth yellowtail sashimi. They also serve some flashy rolls: The Elvis does not have peanut butter or bacon, but does combine soft-shell crab, asparagus, caviar and radish--a hedonist"s dream.
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