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The eat-in annex of an Italian-food-importing warehouse sports an old-fashioned mural of Ischia"s harbor. Although the art seems to herald trattoria informality, a chef with Bouley training--William Prunty--creates elegant, modern takes on familiar dishes. Pizza is drizzled with truffle oil; artichokes morph into a rapturous pudding; tender steak, lamb, chicken, rabbit, veal and fish undergo similar alchemy. Unusual Chiantis and malvasias from the in-house wine bar, a spot-on saffron panna cotta and splendid service round out your MetroCard hop to Ischia

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