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In a "hood dotted with decades-old red-sauce joints, this sophisticated Southern Italian toddler is a hit. The rustic exposed brick, tabletop candles and weathered photos of Naples make it a good date spot. Either roomy dining area could handle a raucous birthday celebration. In addition to the wood-oven-fired pizzas, popular house dishes include entrées such as the ample Sicilian-style beef cutlet with roasted peppers and arugula. The service is amazingly attentive without being obtrusive, and no one will rush you out.

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