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Nothing inside Sawa suggests barbecue. The squeaky-clean, white tile walls and bamboo kitchen door at this take-out spot look more like something out of a Japanese restaurant. And gas-fired ovens don"t scream "low and slow." But owner Takashi Sawa, a Japanese-born meat maven, is serious about his barbecue. He"s developed his own top-secret seasoning blend--a recipe that combines more than 20 spices--and serves traditional dishes like St. Louis ribs, BBQ chicken and Brunswick stew. His most unusual item: a country-style pork rib dish in which the meat is cut diagonally across the grain.

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