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This bohemian bistro bears the unmistakable mark of owner Keith McNally (Pastis, Balthazar). The faux-thentic decor (old mirrors, antique subway tiles) and moderately priced, straightforward menu draw a crowd of sundry hipsters, locals and suits. The democratic bent extends to the menu, which features staples (most under $20) like spaghetti with vibrant radicchio and roasted garlic, and an incredibly tender braised lamb, as well as dishes that pay homage to the LES (among them, herring in cream sauce from Russ & Daughters). Don"t neglect the wine list: The Eat Out Award--winning collection features a mere six bottles, broken into "cheap," "decent" and "good" categories.

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