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Sel et Poivre has the beautiful bistro vibe down. Pale-yellow walls are hung with evocative black-and-white streetscapes. Pureed red snapper and sea bass blend with a tangy tomato broth to make a full-bodied soup. The accompanying plate of homemade croutons, rouille and shreds of Swiss cheese come with charming instructions from the waiter: "Spread ze sauce on ze crouton, top wees fromage, and float in ze soup like leetle boats." The mushroom-leek risotto is rich and dense and tastes subtly of dry white wine; the sautéed skate au beurre noir is similarly flavorful and luxurious. The $27 prix fixe includes three courses--no substitutions. That"s okay; the splendid chocolate mousse is included.

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