Getting Shanghai cuisine just right is no easy trick. The flavors are subtle and the preparations require the freshest ingredients. Although this restaurant deserves applause for serving authentic dishes like a sherry-soaked appetizer of pig stomach, pork tongue and chicken feet, it doesn"t always live up to the demands of its moniker. Fried yellow fish in sweet-and-sour sauce should have arrived shaped like a squirrel (it"s a pun on the dish"s Chinese name); this version also tasted shapeless--too sweet and bland. Ask for off-the-menu salted-pork-and-bok-choy fried rice, a slow-simmered dish with vegetable and meat juices that the kitchen does very well.
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