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Diners nostalgic for Chinese food that doesn"t involve a takeout box should flock to this elegant banquet-style eatery. Highlights include the addictive, crisp-skinned Peking duck and seasonal soft-shell crabs served with a smoky black-bean sauce. The crown jewel is, surprisingly, dessert. Crisp-on-the-outside "fried soup" (panfried cakes of water-chestnut starch) is sweet and custardlike within.

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