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Located inside a shiny LIC condo development, Shi--an ambitious Pan-Asian eatery--is predictably chichi. The music was thumping, the DJ booth is illuminated with purple light, and the servers are clad in all black. The food is less polished. A fried crab claw appetizer was all batter and no meat, while lettuce wraps stuffed with hoisin-drenched ground chicken were oily. An entrée of basil beef was better, if a little conventional--tender strips of meat in a spicy, herbaceous sauce. Despite the ho-hum food, with a little sake you should be able to enjoy Shi"s main draw: the stunning view of the Manhattan skyline.

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