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Shima blends in nicely with New York"s swelling ranks of perfectly good sushi restaurants. The fish is fresh, the menu covers the waterfront, and the ambience is comfortable. Spicy tuna tartare successfully blends the heat of Chinese red peppers with the coolness of raw tuna, and a sweet teriyaki sauce glazes the crisp-edged beef negimaki.{/I} The miso soup, which comes with all entrées, is a surprising standout. The muted pink-and-turquoise room with blond wood accents is comfortable and quiet enough for conversation. Service can be poky, so come early if you"re headed to one of the nearby theaters.

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