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At a Thai restaurant, sometimes it"s best to look for one dish to gage how the place stacks up against the competition The $12.95 "Drunken Sea," at Siam Garden is one such dish. Servers bring the food to the table on a sizzling platter whose smoke is redolent with hot chilies. The medley of seafood--shrimp, scallops, squid and mussels--is sautéed with scallions, garlic, onions, Thai basil, lemongrass, lime and fresh chilies. It"s so deliciously spicy that you"ll wnat to use every grain of rice to sop up the sauce.

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