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Most hotel restaurants cultivate either a charmingly old-fashioned or aggressively modern image: Silverleaf Tavern attempts to do both. Designer Bob Puccini has carved out a few unusual nooks inside this corner location at the new 70 Park Avenue Hotel (formerly the Doral Park). You can sit at the bar upon entering and stare up at the lighted tree-motif ceiling or cozy up next to strangers at the large communal wood table. Check out the more formal back room, a dizzying space full of garish paintings in rococo frames, leather booths with pearl buttons and a modern chandelier with sculpted metal branches and crystal leaves. Chef Kevin Reilly (Zoë, Union Square Café) serves a New York--inspired menu that includes char-grilled hanger steak with a short-rib--horseradish knish--a dish that will surely create a pairing challenge for cocktail creator Dale DeGroff.

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