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Informal surveys place meat cakes at the top of the typical Norwegian"s wish list, but Americans generally think of Norway"s cuisine as cured fish. Indeed, pickled herring qualifies as a standard national dish, fed to peasants all winter long for generations. An authentic pickled--herring sampler is produced by the pan-Scandinavian Smörgås Chef, which operates two NYC branches (try the cozier Financial District version, if you can). The entrée sampler includes four varieties--with onions, in tomato sauce, in mustard sauce and plain--along with a small mound of ho-hum potato salad. If the $15 price tag has you saying "Uff da!," go for the $8 appetizer-size rendition.

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