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The two-level space at this Long Island City spot has exposed wooden beams, old-West placards and mounted longhorn-cattle heads. Still, with so many real barbecue pits now gracing the city, it"s hard to justify Smokey"s uninspiring 'cue: A cloyingly sweet sauce smothers the St. Louis-style ribs, though they do have the moist, fatty texture of good barbecue. The dry, chewy beef brisket and pulled pork weren"t so lucky; they had the texture of a saddle. At least the kitchen gets the sides right: The mac and cheese is creamy delicious, and the cornbread gets a nice char from a few minutes on the grill and a sweet slather of honey butter.

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