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When owners Elias Varkoutas and Adam Greene opened Snack, a tiny five-table Soho café, they had no plans for an upscale spin-off. But here it is--larger, bright and simple, with banquettes, exposed brick and shelves stocked with products from the homeland. Elegant French techniques are put to good use in classic Greek dishes. Meatless moussaka, layered with prunes, eggplant and potato, sits in a pool of deliciously light béchamel sauce. The all-Greek wine list includes many bottles under $30; dessert fans can chase semolina cake with a cup of super-strength Greek coffee.

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