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The Financial District is bearish on Sophie Luna"s minichain of restaurants serving hearty homespun lunches. Crowds line up for generous servings of such staples as moro and maduros (fried plantains). Dishes like ropa vieja (shredded beef) or chuletas fritas (pork chops) are prepared with minimal spice, tasting much like their uncomplicated, if sometimes bland, island counterparts. Sophie"s version of Cuban cuisine leans more toward traditional than dramatic, but at $7 an entrée, you can"t beat it. A hungry bear from the pit knows a bargain.

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