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When the weather is nice, seating along bustling Seventh Avenue here is in high demand, but the exposed brick room, with tightly packed, candle-lit tables, offers a more intimate setting. The gigantic, reasonably priced menu includes more than a dozen pastas and hearty dishes like a fillet of moist salmon wrapped in thin slices of roasted potatoes and a pork loin stuffed with spinach, prosciutto and mozzarella. A long list of $12 brunch specials, with bottomless Bloody Marys and mimosas, draws a wait on the weekend.

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