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Sparks used to be a mob hangout. Now it"s just mobbed. Even with a reservation, you may have to wait for an hour at the cramped bar. It"s worth it: The signature sirloin is a lean 16-ounce prime hunk with a salty, lightly charred exterior. Savory beef scaloppine and steak fromage (filet mignon topped with Roquefort) are also outstanding. When your fork slides through a velvety wedge of chocolate mousse cake, you"ll feel sorry for Gambino crime boss Paul Castellano, who was famously whacked as he approached the entrance in 1985: He died before enjoying his last good meal.

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