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Any serious trip to Flushing for volcanically spicy Szechuan food should begin here. Revered by in-the-know regulars, this brightly lit eatery serves plates of peppercorn-laden pork and lamb swimming in a chili sauce that"s sure to set even the most seasoned palate aflame. Make sure to stock up on cold-bar options, like zesty sesame noodles, crunchy chopped cucumbers and delicately smooth tofu--you"ll need the relief. Service is speedy and mercifully attentive to water requests.

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