Chef-owner Salvatore Corea (Cacio e Pepe) has picked up where Tom Valenti left off, upping the Italian-food ante on the Upper West Side with this ambitious restaurant. The environment screams ski chalet; dark wood accents the brick walls of this little box of a space. The food is hearty--big portions, rich ingredients, heavy sauces. But some of Corea"s ingredients surprise. Gelatin pops up on the list of antipasti: It accompanies a sottocenere cow"s milk cheese that has been aged under ashes. Forgo dessert for the deliciously sweet pastas: Pumpkin ravioli with parmesan sauce tastes almost like cheesecake.