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This is a thinking person"s comfort-food spot, complete with floor-to-ceiling windows, table service and giant white plates. Hefty patties with a cookout-worthy char come any way except under a processed cheese single: on fresh-baked buns, in a three-lettuce salad or inside a vegetable soup. Fries are standard, but gooey Parmesan sweet-potato mash serves as a sophisticated substitute. However it"s the seductive soda fountain drinks (including rosemary) and the generous heaps of extra thick shakes made from exotic flavors (such as Il Laboratorio del Gelato ice cream) that are truly eclectic.

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