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Stealthily opened in November, divey booze den Subject is quietly executing one of New York’s most convivial new bar programs, courtesy of veteran drinks nerds Matthew Rush (Millesime) and Christopher Harrington (Saxon + Parole). In unassuming digs—red Christmas lights, a wood-trimmed marble bar—the pair is bringing forward-thinking methods to a breezy drinks menu of fresh cocktails, beer-and-shot combos and canned suds. A 1960s Coke machine—rigged up with a C02 carbonator—fizzes up house-made sodas with essential-oil flavors, all highlighted in the menu of nine cocktails. Lavender-and-hibiscus tonic (along with Brooklyn Gin) gives the classic G&T a feminine update, while orange-cream soda lightens a potent mix of Rittenhouse Rye and green Chartreuse in the Matilda’s Big Brother. Laid-back tipplers can get a beer paired with an infused shot, like a Sixpoint Resin Ale served alongside a slug of mint-honey-sweetened whiskey. And a selection of eight cans features craft options (Old Chub Scotch ale, 21st Amendment’s Back in Black) and lowbrow brews (PBR, Tecate). Soak up the liquor with comfort-food plates, such as vegetarian chili with cheddar-cheese corn bread and pulled pork slow-cooked in root beer and sandwiched in a ciabatta roll.