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Smith Street"s restaurant row hardly lacks for French food (see: Bar Tabac), but this charming spot from husband-and-wife team Benoit and Melanie Rouan manages to stand out. A brick-walled dining room, decorated with rotating works from local artists, is the rustic setting for thoughtful French fare. A starter of rich, chunky duck liver pate was delicious smeared on toast. Entrees are just as elegant: Delicate brook trout with brown butter sage sauce arrives with lemony haricots verts, while tender pan-seared duck breast is fanned over a bright split pea purée. For dessert, red wine--poached rhubarb dotted with apricot compote makes for a simple, seasonal conclusion.

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