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The Gotham outpost of a popular Japanese chain, Sushiden is a dependable midtown spot. The sushi Bizen entrée features nine varieties of fish plus tamago (egg). The uni (sea urchin) and ikura (salmon roe) are reasonably proportioned and exceedingly fresh. Medium-fatty toro (tuna) is practically fall-apart tender. Sushiden has a dozen or so rolls with cutesy names (the Disney contains roasted duck); try the negitoro inside-out roll, containing mashed toro with scallions and spicy sauce, topped with garlic chips. For dessert, try the traditional Japanese sweets such as surprisingly light mochi (rice-paste balls), which you scoop up with a tiny spoon.

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