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Getting New Yorkers to cook for themselves isn"t easy, but Swish is giving it a shot. The main offering is shabu-shabu (named for the swishing sound of meat being stirred in boiling broth); mini hot pots are provided for beginners, along with all the fixins--beef or fish, cabbage, mushrooms, noodles, and your choice of seafood, sake, or spicy broth--plus a list of confusing instructions. More advanced cooks can order ingredients à la carte or share whimsically named meals for two, such as Dive into the Sea: shrimp, crab, squid, scallops, sliced fish, and fish balls. Tapioca bubble-tea and fruit smoothies are free with each entrée.

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