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"French country" is more than just a style at this petite eatery with white clapboard walls and slanting red wooden floors. Each table for two is topped with fresh flowers in a small milk pitcher; rustic goat-cheese fritters with beets and haricots verts are drizzled with bright raspberry vinaigrette; and hearty hanger steak is served with rich Stilton potatoes. Sample the banana brioche pudding before you reenter city life.

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