Beef is the thing at this West Village yakiniku restaurant--Japan"s interpretation of Korean barbecue. The meal is balanced, refined and surprisingly light, thanks to modest portions and impeccably sourced sustainable beef. Start with raw small plates, like pristine steak tartare, before firing up your table"s electric grill. Small dishes of uncooked cuts, like buttery skirt steak and milky sweetbreads, are seasoned with your choice of salt, garlic or sesame oil, or marinated in a secret sauce. The sole dessert, vanilla-flecked soft serve with Japanese toppings (like sweet adzuki beans), is a lighthearted touch.