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Locals have learned to overlook the low ceilings and basement locale of this scruffy candlelit haunt. Though there's always a selection of satisfying fresh pastas and sauces to choose from, the real delicacies are the specials. Dishes include fragrant pork chops stuffed with prosciutto and sage, and red snapper with olive-studded mashed potatoes, so deftly prepared that it's hard to believe they came from the tiny corner kitchen. Take advantage of the handful of serviceable reds for $30 a bottle.

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