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Although the setting is generic (bland wood paneling, black-clad waitresses, Top 40 radio), the first taste of tender beef goulash, succulent pierogi, fat kielbasa or meat-and-vegetable-crammed cabbage will transport you to Poland faster than you can say, Piwo, prosze!{/I} (Beer, please!) Broiled chicken livers are better than you'd think--and the mountainous portion will easily feed you and a friend the following day. Don"t put down your fork until you"ve tried the burrito-size, fruit-stuffed blintzes. And when the (very affordable) check arrives, you"ll promise to polka your way back here again.

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