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Friendly service and well-prepared dishes draw a steady crowd to the Upper West Side branch of a budget minichain (the free-flowing free wine doesn"t hurt). The decor is pleasant, with wood paneling and recessed lighting. Best of all, the food is nicely ungreasy and the flavors, nuanced. For instance, crisp prawns with walnuts have a light breading and a toned-down sweet-and-sour sauce that doesn"t overwhelm the seafood. Similarly, juicy little steamed buns are stuffed with tender meat, vegetable or red-bean filling.

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