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If you"re having Jamaican food in Jamaica, Queens, the stuff better be authentic. Happily, the Door delivers on the classics. Jerk chicken is suitably fiery, escovitch (pickled snapper) is served with bammy (cassava); there"s even saltfish, the country"s national dish. The atmosphere is tropical chic: celery-colored walls, burgundy drapes and paintings of island scenes. Desserts such as black cake, a dense fruit cake, are awfully tasty, but the most delicious treat is a lowly side dish: fried sweet plantains.

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