Despite its celebrated consulting chef (Ryan Skeen, formerly of Resto), this Fort Greene eatery from onetime Gilt pastry cook Nicholas Morgenstern fails to live up to the hype. Too-tiny small plates include chewy candied bacon and dense pork meatballs in tomato gravy--appealing enough, but not as memorable as the versions Skeen offered at Resto. Given Morgenstern"s background, you"d expect the restaurant to come through with an impressive finale. Sadly, while his rich chocolate-hazelnut pudding and buttery peach crisp delivered, not much else did. Still, in the warmer months, Morgenstern breaks out of the kitchen and on to the street with a hand-built cart for his house-made ice creams and frozen yogurts (check out the latest flavors at twitter.com/greeneicecream).