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Unless you're a guest of the Ace Hotel, no reservations are accepted—but it's worth a shot to see if you can snag a stool or bar table at this happening seafood brasserie. Ken Friedman and April Bloomfield (The Spotted Pig, The Breslin) are the golden-touch team behind it. The earlier, more formal incarnation of John Dory was in Chelsea; this version is snazzy and relaxed. The menu concentrates on small plates rather than full-blown meals, for instance, an extensive raw bar, oysters Rockefeller, burrata with trout caviar and oyster pan roast with uni crostini. Expert cocktails via Sasha Petraske (Milk & Honey) and wines on tap are highlights of the beverage program. The basement kitchen offers a chef's table that can seat 12.