The longtime Village bistro space—and before that the legendary Lion, where Barbra Streisand was discovered on open-mic night—is happening once again, thanks to chef John DeLucie (ex–Waverly Inn) and Mark Amadei (Delicatessen, Macbar, Cafeteria). The space is classic NYC glamour, as is the crowd. Pro barmen mix strong cocktails, which helps ameliorate the wait for a table. The menu is a tribute to Delmonico days, when lobster bisque, raw oysters, Dover sole and steak with béarnaise sauce were all the rage. In a nod to modern times, there is the requisite "special blend" burger.