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Just blocks from Ground Zero, the restaurant ought to be called "The Little Bigger Place That Could." Not only did it buck the trend by reopening just months after September 11, 2001, it actually expanded into a larger space. Now, in a neighborhood known for being mostly deserted after the sun goes down, it"s open for dinner on weeknights. Through it all, prices have remained low for American standbys like the albacore tuna salad and BLT on challah toast, and Mexican specialties like tostadas de tinga and chilaquiles{/I}. Decor is by-the-book faux-Mexicana, and flavors tend toward the bland, but you"ve got to admire this place"s pluck.

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