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The Marrow, by definition, is the choicest, essential part, denoting strength, vitality and richness. That's this place in a nutshell, the third outing from partners Harold Dieterle (winner of Top Chef's first season) and Alicia Nosenzo, whose Perilla and Kin Shop are solid pleasures too. The menu is divided into columns of contemporary German and Italian dishes, reflecting Dieterle's heritage (his father was German, his mother Italian). That means hand-cut fettuccini with pork and sage sausage, acorn squash and baked parmesan versus braised duck and pretzel dumpling soup with mushrooms and kale. Or perhaps braised beef brisket braciole with escarole and house-ground polenta as opposed to pan-roasted salmon with cabbage, pastrami and warm mustard sauce. Actually, both sides are winning. The far West Village space is convivial and professionally run, also featuring an L-shaped granite bar that's great for a cocktail or glass of European wine.