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The mood inside this 28-seat eatery is half cabin in the woods (wide-plank wood floors, clunky butcher-block tables) and half Grandma"s living room (flowery wallpaper, quaint sconces), with country-style American grub rounding out the aesthetic. Chef Andy Gilbert"s short menu features toast topped with house-cured Spanish mackerel with avocado. His organic-chicken potpie is a thick stew studded with chunks of tender white meat, peas and carrots, and flavored with thyme. For dessert, stick to the basics: banana cream pie.

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