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With just nine stools and a few low-slung cocktail tables, this bright, mod space looks more like a glorified bar than a legitimate restaurant. But chef Tim Reardon"s multiculti fare is worth a shot. A pumpkin-curry bisque was rich and autumnal; truffled goat-cheese ravioli arrived with a delicious creamy leek sauce; and lightly battered onion rings, linguini-thin and crunchy, were outstanding. Though it doesn"t quite measure up to its forebear (the Shoreham was once home to French cuisine relic La Caravelle), it"s a worthy place for a drink and a bite in Midtown.

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