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A gorgeous chandelier, lizard-skin banquettes and plush retro booths underline the 1940s inspiration behind this AvroKO-designed tri-level restaurant. The decor, however, does not steal the show: Chris Santos (Suba, Wyanoka) turns out 40 wildly inventive shareable plates, like a French-onion soup that comes in dumpling form and red-snapper tacos lavished with fiery mango-and-avocado salsa. Don"t be deterred by the wait--you"ll get in...eventually.

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