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{I}Beisl is Austrian slang for "pub," making this place a step down on the formality scale for Thomas Ferlesch, who was a star chef at the posh Vienna "79 when he was 23. The comfortable, wainscoted restaurant serves Viennese classics along with traditional bistro food. Goulash made with fall-apart-tender beef cheeks is served with rich, raggedy spaetzle that soak up every drop of sauce. The sauerbraten comes with nearly candied, cinnamon-spiked red cabbage, which draws out the meat"s flavor. For dessert, have the almond- and hazelnut-filled linzertorte, said by Austrian expats to be better than anything you --can find in Vienna (or Linz, for that matter). --Reserve ahead; the entire BAM audience seems to march across the street for dinner every night. In warm weather, the garden patio helps --accommodate everyone.

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