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Toledo is midtown"s cushier version of downtown"s traditional paella palaces. Low-lit, wood-paneled dining rooms encourage conversation, which courtly, old-fashioned waiters take care not to interrupt. Starters and meat entrées are competent, but that paella is stellar: garlicky, saffron-spiked, stuffed with meltingly tender scallops and chewable clams. You"ll shell out a little more than you would in the Village, and you won"t care.

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