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Mexican eateries are ubiquitous in Corona, but unlike most, this sunny, family-run tortilleria painstakingly grinds corn into fresh masa for many of its dishes. This means that the tamales are delicate and fluffy, and profoundly corny tortillas envelop fillings such as fried skate in the first-rate fish tacos. The Italian tamale ($2.50) is a melting-pot marvel of steamy masa, sausage, peppers and mozzarella.

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