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Sometimes, you want to go where you know the name of everything. Trattoria Mulino serves tried-and-true appetizers like baked clams, fried zucchini, and breaded stuffed mushrooms. Juicy osso buco alla milanese falls off the bone with a little push; the accompanying ladleful of vegetables is uncommonly tasty. P. S. The generous lunch specials are a bargain--veal Marsala with a side of pasta will set you back just 15 bucks.

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