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This casually elegant Staten Island eatery owes its popularity to the constant presence of chef-owners Vittorio Asoli and Anthony LoBianco as well as to the wood-burning brick oven that cooks everything from pizza to portobellos. Late in the week, expect to wait for a table. If you"re looking for memorable stuffed artichokes, they"re here, in all their garlicky glory. The saltimbocca alla romana is another classic done right--tender veal scaloppine topped with salty prosciutto and accented with butter and sage.

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