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This quaint neighborhood French bistro succeeds in the looks department with a classic combination of white pressed-tin ceiling, worn wooden tables and vases full of fresh flowers. Unfortunately, the food lacks the same charm. A frisée salad comes with a perfectly poached egg and bits of smoky, fatty lardons, but is slicked with a bland vinaigrette. The steak is paired with excellent fries--but also par-cooked green beans that taste faintly of cooking gas. Desserts such as a creamy chocolate mousse and heavenly scoops of hazelnut ice cream eliminate the bad taste in your mouth, but not enough to save the meal.

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