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The airy bar, brick-lined dining room and cozy back garden are for those in the know, who enjoy exquisitely prepared modern-American cuisine that gets its nouvelle accents from Swiss owner-chef Ralf Kuettel. Among the appetizers are oysters drizzled in a tarragon mignonette and an unearthly pork shoulder crépinette with sautéed spinach. Entrées, like the crisp chicken paillard and the coriander-studded hanger steak, are enhanced by a side of gratinéed pizokel (Swiss dumplings) with caramelized onions and melted Gruyère. Close with the decadent Nusstorte or the (predominately Swiss) selection of cheeses but be sure to sample the changing wine selection--Kuettel used to manage the Chelsea Wine Vault.

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