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An effusive reception, an entryway lined with intricate wood carvings and stained glass, a menu written in French (and English) with detailed descriptions of duck, veal and frog-leg dishes: This is expense-account heaven au chinois. Your accounting department won"t let you charge late-night pay-per-view movies to your hotel room, but who"s going to notice a bowl of Borneo swallow"s nest or shark"s fin soup (which is supposedly aphrodisiacal) on your tab? The elaborately executed food is top-shelf, but you"ll be glad you brought your corporate card--the $28 lunch special is about as cheap as it gets (unless you"re just having white rice, a steal at $1.50)

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