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There"s a hint of bordello--blood-red walls, secluded balcony tables--at this Gramercy meze destination. Try the patlican salatasi (a satiny-smooth smoked-eggplant dip) before digging into the tender lamb kebabs and tavuk pirzola (chicken stuffed with green peppers, tomatoes and creamy Turkish cheese). Kadayif (shredded phyllo topped with honey and pistachios) is a sweet and appropriately sensual ending.

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