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This second project from chef King Phojanakong (Kuma Inn) is as much an achievement as its Manhattan predecessor. The enticing Southeast Asian menu is full of beer-friendly shareable plates (though it"s BYO for now), like crispy chicken drumettes with first-rate condiments including fish sauce and vibrant hot peppers. The chef also has a deft hand with seafood: Wok-roasted Manila clams submerged in a funky, fermented black-bean sauce was the best dish we tried. In a city chockablock with forgettable Asian restaurants, Umi Nom"s memorable food makes it a gem in an unlikely "hood.

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