Brooklyn – Bedford-Stuyvesant
433 DeKalb Ave between Classon Ave and Taaffe Pl
This second project from chef King Phojanakong (Kuma Inn) is as much an achievement as its Manhattan predecessor. The enticing Southeast Asian menu is full of beer-friendly shareable plates (though it"s BYO for now), like crispy chicken drumettes with first-rate condiments including fish sauce and vibrant hot peppers. The chef also has a deft hand with seafood: Wok-roasted Manila clams submerged in a funky, fermented black-bean sauce was the best dish we tried. In a city chockablock with forgettable Asian restaurants, Umi Nom"s memorable food makes it a gem in an unlikely "hood.
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- Average small plate: $11. MC, V
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